Saddles, what I like and why. More cold weather tips to keep you riding.
Where to Find the Best Deals on Hoka Shoes
Meaning “to fly” in Maori, Hoka was founded in 2009 so that anyone spending long hours on their feet could get the ultimate experience with optimum cushioning and stability. Less than 15 years after its founding, Hoka is bringing in revenues topping a billion dollars a year, so it’s clear that people are loving this brand. But with quality comes high prices, and Hoka is no doubt in the high end price-wise. Thanks to Brad's Deals, we found the best prices on Hoka.
I’m going to talk about saddles, which ones I like and why. I’m also going to talk about cold weather challenges riders face and how to deal with them.
Also, based on some inquiries, I’m now offering Bike Consultations, you can find more information about it here. You can also get a bike consultation by referring friends.
Saddles: what I like and why.
Saddles are a very personal thing. People are different shapes and sizes, so you might hate something I love. If you know what to look for in a saddle as far a shape, size etc, it makes buying one less risky. I see saddles as a wear item. I tend to break them from time to time. I used to buy a saddle, and hope it was going to work. Some did, some didn’t. Once I started endurance racing I needed a saddle that I could be on for 6-12 hours at a time. Nothing sucks more than grunting out a long climb on an uncomfortable saddle. You have tons of time to think about how much your saddle sucks. After a race or two like this you find yourself going down the saddle rabbit hole.
Back when I first went down this rabbit hole most saddles were not available in multiple widths. You might be asking why this matters. You want your sit bones to be in the center of the padding on either side of the center channel. They center channel helps alleviate pressure and lack of blood flow to sensitive bits. People being different shapes and sizes require different width saddles.
If you don’t already have a saddle that you like, you will need to measure your sit bones. There are a few ways to do this. Some bike shops have a gel matt that measures your imprint They other option is sitting on corrugated cardboard. If you put pressure on corrugated cardboard it leaves an imprint. Most shipping boxes are corrugated. Cut out a piece wide enough to sit on, and place it on a bench or low table that’s about knee height. Sit down on it directly from above. Roll on back and forth on your sit bones a bit. Put a dot in the center of each, and measure the distance between them in millimeters. The measurement will likely be between 135 and 165. If you don’t land on a 1X5, pick the nearest 1X5. If you are a 142, go with 145. This number will give you a great place to start your saddle search.
The next thing to consider is the saddle length. Prior to 2023 I don’t recall seeing many short saddles, especially on mountain bikes. It’s entirely possible that they were out there, but I wasn’t aware. As soon as I saw that as an option I was very intrigued. I have ripped more than a few pairs or shorts or bibs on the nose of my saddle. I don’t feel like the shorter length loses anything as far as comfort and control. I actually think they are a little more comfortable when your a little forward on the saddle on steep climbs. Having the saddle end a little short here is nice too. The last thing to consider is the thickness of the padding. In bike saddles thicker padding doesn’t mean it will be more comfortable. They quality the padding matters.
If you are a newer rider or just someone looking for something with a little more padding, the WTB Volt is a great place to start.
One of my all time favorites is the SQLab 611 Ergowave Active. SQLab does a few things that I don’t think anyone else does. The profile of the saddle is unique. The spot where you sit bones rest is a little above the middle and nose of the saddle relieving pressure on sensitive bits. The second one is the Active part of the saddle. There are elastomers in the saddle that enable it to move with you while to pedal. At the bottom of each pedal stroke that side of the saddle dips a bit keeping your spine straighter. Both of these were key to me when I wan endurance racing. With some saddles you can mimic this feeling a little bit by tilting the nose of the saddle down just a bit.

Landlocked Forest MA
Bike I’m Eyeing: Atherton Bikes A.200.G
Here’s why…..Gates, a beltdrive company., did something pretty cool. They are offering $100,000 to the first downhill team to win a race on a Gates belt drive. This is driving race teams to come up with bikes like this one. In order to use a belt on a downhill bike that you intend to win races on, you need to use a gearbox to give the racer the additional range needed in a race. Belts are traditionally used in single speed setups. Check out Pinkbike’s write up on it.

Atherton Bikes A.200.G
Cold weather challenges
I have written a little in the past about cold weather riding, but since we are in an unusually cold part of the winter I wanted to expand upon my last post. We face lots of challenges this time of year from motivation, rideable conditions, extreme cold, and all the frozen water issues that arise.
This time of year I struggle with motivation to some degree. I am less likely to get up early to go for a ride prior to work, and less likely to sneak in a solo ride after work. Part of my lack of motivation stems from me being a little older and wiser. Riding solo in the woods in the dark with freezing temps isn’t a great idea from a safety standpoint. In the interest of no losing all my fitness this time of year, I try to keep active as best as I can. I have found that for me any type of pedaling helps. Whether it’s on the trails, road, or stationary, and peddling helps. If I can’t do any of the above I try to hit the rower.
One of the big issues with winter riding it frozen water, otherwise known as ice. When I lived up north most of us had either a fatbike with studded tires, or a spare wheelset with studded tires or studded tires to put on. When there is a thin layer of ice, studs are a key to staying upright. Studded tires are great, but only work well when there is ice. They also don’t do great on rocks. They can slip and/or tear the studs out. Depending on where you live, a pair of studded tires can really extend your riding time. On really cold days your water can freeze. More accurately, the hose to your reservoir can freeze. To combat this, I will do a blow back. Blowing the water back out of the hose helps here. I have found the insulated hoses to be essentially useless as well. If the hose does freeze, you can tuck in into your jacket to thaw out. The last place where ice can be a challenge is in the form of creek crossings. If they are frozen you need to be sure the ice can support your weight. If the ice it thin is it thin enough to ride through? Use extreme caution on creek crossings as a wet foot can end your ride in a hurry.
I have a pretty set winter riding gear setup. I have found this works for me based on where I live in Maryland. I start with wool socks, and I use a thin liner sock on really cold days. Then I use Shimano SH-MW702 winter riding shoe. I will put these on before I leave the house, so my shoes and feet are warm at the start of the ride. If I put on a pair of cold shoes right before I ride my feet are cold for most of the ride. Chemical warmers can also help on those really cold days. I also use the Endura Singletrack pants. I like these because the cuffs go over your shoes helping to keep water out of your shoes from melting snow or creek crossings. I will wear my usual bibs as my lower base layer. I also use a merino wool base layer. From there I will add a short or long sleeve jersey with a Club Ride flannel on top. Club Ride has a few different weight shirts that I will choose based on the current forecast. On windy days I will add in a wind breaker vest of jacket. For my head I use a Smart Wool beanie that fits under my helmet really well. For really cold days I will use a balaclava under my helmet. For the last piece of puzzle I use Smart Wool glove liners, and the Hand Up Colder Days gloves. I like this combo because I can still feel my bars, and I can remove the liner if my hands get too warm. Layers are the key. You will need to experiment a bit to see what works. The general rule of thumb is that if you are warm at the trailhead you will be hot on the ride. Being hot is no good either because you get cold once you stop because your base layers are soaked in sweat.
Riding in the cold is more fun than sitting on the couch. Even if you can’t ride as frequently as you would like, you will still have decent fitness base once the weather turns warm again.
Did you miss some of the previous issues? Here are some of the most popular ones:
50 Year Trail Tucson AZ

Ruby Hill Denver CO
What am I reading?
My favorite stuff:
The recommendations below include affiliate links, if you make a purchase I’ll receive a very small commission.
A great saddle at a good price. This was my go to for years ![]() | A good looking and functional saddle ![]() | Very expensive, very light, and very comfortable ![]() |