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In today’s send I’m going to talk about maintenance again and will cover all things tires, tubeless, and tire inserts.

Sometimes I feel like I am talking into an echo chamber, so I would like to open it up for questions. If you’ve got a question you’d like for me to address in the newsletter, simply hit “reply” and respond with your question. I won’t include the name of the person asking the question unless they specifically ask me to include it.

Tires: Tubeless, and why you should be doing it?

I have a new bike arriving this week(more on this in a later issue), and it has me thinking about the stock tires, tubeless setup and what inserts I will be running.

Tubeless is exactly what it sound like it is. You are able to get an airtight seal with tire, rim, and valve, and you have liquid sealant inside the tire to help with punctures. There are 3 benefits from tubeless that make the mess you sometimes have to deal with worth the trouble. As much as I love tubeless, it can be a pain in the neck and messy from time to time. One major benefit of tubeless is the ability to run lower pressure without the risk of a pinch flat. You get a pinch flat from running the tire pressure too low, and you pinch the tube between the tire and rim. This will usually result in two small punctures that look like a snake bite. Lower pressure provides better traction because the contact patch of the tire is larger. More rubber on the dirt means better traction. The second benefit is lower rotational weight. From my experience you will feel the weight in your wheels more than anywhere else on the bike. Unless you are riding a plus or fat bike, this weight loss will be minimal. The third benefit to tubeless is it’s ability to seal small punctures. If something punctures the tire, and doesn’t come out you might not even know it happened. If you do get a puncture the liquid sealant on the inside will help plug the hole, so you can keep riding. Once you find the hole, rotate the wheel so the puncture is on the bottom. That will help the sealant get to the hole. Give it a little bit if time to do it’s thing, reinflate the tire, and you are back on your ride. I used Stan’s No Tubes for years with good results. Recently I have been using Orange Seal based on recommendations from mechanics I trust, and so far I have been happy with it.

Sometimes you will end up with a puncture that’s too large for the sealant to fix. This is where tire bacon comes into play. Sadly this isn’t a delicious trail side snack:) Tire bacon is a bike specific plug that’s brown, and is sold in strips. The plugs are a scaled down version the same ones you could use for a car tire. A tubeless repair kit is a great addition to your bike tools. The Pro Bike Tool one linked above is great. It has 2 different size plugs, an insertion tool, and an integrated metal case.

Bike I’m Eyeing: Forbidden Dreadnought V2

Tubeless: how to set it up with and without an insert.

A quick note to start. I will be using rim and wheel interchangeably here. They are different. A rim is a part of the wheel along with spokes, nipples and a hub. When I use rim, I am referring to it being part of the wheel, and not a stand alone part.

Tubeless can be intimidating for a first timer. It can, and likely will be messy for a first timer. I haven’t used tubes voluntarily on any mountain bike since 2008, and I still make a mess once in a while. There are a few things that can make it easier. The Cush Core Bead Dropper is a great tire lever because of the built in handle. That said, it’s about three times the cost of a standard Pedro’s Lever. A sealant injector is also a great idea. You can just pour sealant in before you get the tire fully on the rim. I prefer an injector because it’s a bit cleaner. In a pinch a 2oz Stans bottle works too. A valve core tool will be very helpful here too. Finally you will need a good floor pump. An air compressor is a nice to have option, but it’s not necessary.

If you buy a bike that is sold with tubeless ready wheels, it will have these three things. A tubeless ready rim, a pair tubeless valve stems, and tubeless ready tires. The wheel in addition to being tubeless ready also needs to be taped. The tape will cover the spoke holes on the wheel. This can also be achieved with rim strips also depending on the manufacturer. If there are rim strips available I will use them becuase they are longer lasting and more reliable than tape.

Your first step will be adding the valve stem to each wheel. They will have a small threaded nut and rubber ring. Once the valve is in the wheel the rubber ring goes on first, and then the nut. Make sure this is tight, but it should never be more than hand tight incase you need to remove it while on the trail. Just because you are tubeless won’t mean you never need to use a tube to get home. Occasionally the hole is too big to seal with plugs, so you will need to put a tube in.

Once the valve is in, the tire needs to go on. The first step here is to make sure the rotational direction is right. There will be an arrow or some other indicator on the tire. I find that putting then wheel on a flat surface is best. I actually use a large recycling can. It’s sturdy, and it fits the wheel really well. Once you start working the tire bead over the wheel it will get really tight before you get it over. Use the tire lever to push the bead towards the center of the rim. You will work your way around the rim, and this will create slack on the bead allowing you to push the last little bit over the rim. A tire lever may be necessary here. For me a tire lever is the last resort. The lever can damage the rim tape if used too aggressively. With the wheel on the recycling can I can use my hands to work it over the rim. You can use your weight here to help by leaning on the tire in a pushup position. Once the bead is over the rim, you need to flip the wheel over, and repeat on the other side.

If you choose to use a tire insert you will need to do this step between getting both sides of the tire on the rim. I use Cush Core and Tannus Armor Tubeless inserts. Even though the Tannus is a little lighter and less expensive it’s more difficult to work with then Cush Core. The insert helps protect the rim from impacts that can damage the rim. They are great for aluminum or carbon wheels. Some carbon wheels have a lifetime we don’t care how you broke your rim lifetime warranty, but I would prefer to not use it if I don’t have to. They also offer sidewall support that can stop tire squirm at lower pressures. Installing it can be a pain. I struggled with it until I saw this instructional video. However I go in a slightly different order. I put one side of the tire on, then the Cush Core, and then the second side of the tire.

Once your tire is on the next step is airing up the tire. This is the same with or without an insert. The insert makes it super easy because it naturally pushes the sidewalls out making it easier to get the beads set. Put the pump on the wheel and go to work. You will hear an audible snap as the beads set in the rim. Keep going until the bead is in all around the tire. There is a line on the tire near the bead. Follow this around the rim. The space between the line and rim should be uniform all around the tire. It it’s not you need to add a little more air. Spraying soapy water around the rim can help the beads set if they are being difficult. Once the tire is on, let all the air out and remove the valve core. Use the injector to put two ounces of sealant on through the valve. Put the core back in, and air the tire up to 25 PSI. Then comes the shake, rattle and roll. Shake the wheel, flip it over from side to side. Put it back on the bike and spin the wheel. Getting sealant all around the inside of the wheel is the best way to get a good seal.

Troubleshooting tips: If the wheel looks like it’s set up correctly, and tire isn’t holding air, there are usually a few potential problems.Either the valve isn’t tight enough, or the tape isn’t fully covering the hole. The tape can be put on sloppily allowing sealant and air out through a spoke hole. Check the valve first. If that’s not it, you need to take the tire off and inspect the tape. If you already put sealant in the tire, this where the mess comes in. You can use injector to suck up most of it if you are carefull taking the tire off.

In the end, even with the mess and challenges, I will always be tubeless.

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